Our Wall*E Robot Gallery

Our EZ-Robot Kit and © Disney © Pixar U-Command Wall*E

Available at EZ-Robot.com

Our EZ-Robot Kit

Available at EZ-Robot.com

Wall*E disassembled

Wall*E's extra parts

Extra parts that we won't use for this built. Including two IR receivers.

Creating a flat surface

Using a Dremel, we cleared the unused plastic from the base plate to make room for Wall*E's processor.

The floor inside Wall*E

The floor, after removing the excess plastic. Later we'll add some padding to absorb vibration.

Making slots for Wall*E's motors

We're creating slots for his motors.

Making room for Wall*E's motors

The floor, after creating slots for his motors. We decided vertical slots would allow for fine tuning the placement of each motor. It also shifts more weight aft to counter balance the forward mounted processing stack.

Making room for Wall*E's motors

The floor from the finish side.

Vibration reduction

We're adding some simple foam padding that will cut down on vibration while still allowing for airflow.

Main axles

We wanted to preserve the axles and create a hub. A friend used a band saw to cut the axles free from the gearboxes. (Thanks AZTK421!)

Toothed hubs

We aligned the toothed mounting plates directly over the center of the metal axle. It is held it in place with hot glue until the screws can be added.

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Use screws!

We highly recommend screwing the hub to the face of the main drive wheel. Special thanks to Tiff's Dad for the detailed bit set! We couldn't have mounted the hubs without them.

Arms

We wanted to preserve the arm joints and hope that we still can. A friend used a band saw to cut the axles off at the position teeth. (Thanks AZTK421!)

Fitting the Ultrasonic Distance Sensor

The Ultrasonic Distance Sensor gives Wall*E the ability to sense objects and obstacles within 60 inches. They are available at here: EZ-Robot.com. Notice the black marker lines. We marked the placement of cosmetic features on the front of Wall*E to help determine the placement of the sensor.

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Mounting the Ultrasonic Distance Sensor

We wanted to secure the sensor within the main body. To protect it and maintain the look.

Rear panel and battery compartment

We're removing the battery compartment from the rear panel to make a smaller access panel instead. Use a soldering iron to remove the wires from the battery plates.

Battery terminals

You'll end up with some surplus battery terminals for a future project or to recycle.

Rear panel and battery compartment

Careful not to cut off the screw housing above the battery compartment. It's what holds the door on.

Rear panel and battery compartment

Cut the back plate off.

Rear panel and battery compartment

Cut the terminal insulated sections of the compartment that are still holding the back plate.

Rear panel and access door

Now we have a small access door that only requires a single screw.

Rear panel and access door

Finished panel.

Rear panel and battery compartment

Finished panel from the inside.

Fit test

Seeing how the tread roller assemblies line up with the floor plate and body walls.

Motor mounting

The motors, mounted into place. Note the additional plastic removed around the hub for clearance. Also, rotate the tread once before gluing to ensure alignment.

CPU mount aft

The bottom plate, aft view. You see the CPU is mounted on its fuse block, with the power connector seated for fitment.

CPU mount forward

The bottom plate, forward view. Again, you see the CPU is mounted on its fuse block.

Making shoulder room

Remove half of the lip that attached the body walls to the lid.

Making shoulder room

Thin the body walls to create more space for the servos.

Making shoulder room

View from above.

Making shoulder room

Note we are leaving the play button connected for a future feature.

Shoulder servos

Mount the shoulder servos flat to the lid.

Shoulder servos

Note the removal of the hidden internal lip to accomodate the servos.

Shoulder servos

We wanted to preserve his natural shoulder appearance.

Lid with servos mounted

A view of the lid before beginning the next assembly.

Fit test

Ensuring the lid closes with the neck servo frame free of the CPU.

Upper body

View of shoulders mounted.

Side view of shoulders

A port view of Wall*E.

Neck servo frame

We reused the former neck gearbox housing as a frame utilizing the exisitng mounting points on the underside of the lid.

Neck servo frame

The servo is mounted perdendicular to the forward motion of the hull to allow clearance of the CPU.

Original posts

To ensure stability, the original mounting posts were shortened and attached the the shoulder servos to make the neck servo mount removable.

The arms have the hubs attached

The arms have the toothed hubs attached via thermal plastic.

Wall*E's neck

We removed the base of the head frm the neck.

Wall*E's neck

We remove the gearworks and hollow out Wall*E's neck to allow wires to pass through.

Servo closeup

One of Wall*E's servos up close with a toothed hub attached.

Wall*E's vision

We cut only a corner out of his existing eye lense to allow his camera to see unobstructed.

Wall*E's vision

Thermal plastic is added for mounting and his existing LED was remounted as the housing was removed.

Head axle

We retain Wall*E's head camera axle as it holds both havles together.

Head top down

Wall*E's head, from the top down.

Thermal plastic neck

We don't want his neck rotating on the old axle anymore.

Thermal plastic neck

Note the wires are brought together and passed out of the head at a single point.

Thermal plastic neck

Glue the former neck opening centered between his cameras.

Wall*E's head

Wall*E's finished head, prior to his neck servo being added.

Head servo

We modified the servo used to tilt the head just slightly, cutting off one of its mounting plates.

Flat surface

We created a flat mounting surface for the head servo.

Neck attached

The neck is attached via modified 6 sided toothed bracket. The bracket had all arms cut off, save for 2 in sequence creating a "V" shape. The bracket was inverted so the "V" shape was upside-down and screwed into the neck allowing the wire bundle to pass between the screws. It was then screwed into the servo's gear, locking it into place. The strength of the neck relies upon the modified bracket. (Future enhancement opportunity)

Wire protection

To protect the wire bundle, automotive wire loom was cut and placed perfectly around the small circluar base where the head was first cut off. The loom is tacked lightly with thermal plastic (hot glue).