We're building an Iron Man Mark II Mask/Faceplate
You can find the models and information to make your own over at Thingiverse.com Thing 2081613.
Printing face components
Print one sheet of face parts.
Printing more face components
Print the opposite sheet of face parts.
A completed sheet
A completed sheet of face parts hot off the printer.
Minor reprints
I had some warped parts that needed to be reprinted, no big deal.
Print the single model components
Print the parts of the mask that only require one of each.
Print the single model components
Print the parts of the mask that only require one of each.
Complete internal components
Looks like we have all of the internal detail parts.
Print the Iron Man Mark 2/3 Faceplate
As noted by the artist, this piece was created by another great artist on Thingiverse.com.
Print the Iron Man Mark 2/3 Faceplate
As noted by the artist, this piece was created by another great artist on Thingiverse.com.
WEAR A DUST MASK!
You can't 3D print new lungs (yet), for now protect them. Masks are cheap. Grab some gloves too. Silly face optional.
Use a 60 grit on the rough parts
I started out with a 60 grit sandpaper on the printed outer parts to take off any burs or excess plastic.
Join the two face parts together
We have an awesome handheld 3D printer that uses the same filament as the large printer. You can use a glue gun or super glue as well.
The faceplate after joining the upper and lower halves
A shot of the faceplate after joining the upper and lower halves.
I started out with standard Bondo
Later I learned that glazing putty would have been all I needed.
Sand with 60 then 400 grit
Because the Bondo was over kill, I used 60 grit sandpaper to clear away the excess Bondo and then 400 grit to shape and smooth it out.
Add a thin coat of glazing putty
Apply a thin coat of glazing putty. I used a basic Bondo brand one part glazing putty ($3-ish). Let it dry for 30 min or more.
After the glaze is set, sand with 400
Use a 400 grit sandpaper to smooth and shape the glazing putty.
Sand with 1000 grit
The 400 grit will get you close, but the 1000 grit will finish fine details and even polish the glaze.
Start painting from the inside
I used a small shipping box to cradle the mask for painting the under side.
Kyrlon 2 in 1 metalic black base coats
I decided on a metalic black for the base coats to give shadow to cracks, create depth and look dirty and industrious on the under side.
2 coats later
Make your coats light. Gentle passes of the part once or twice, but do not dwell or the paint will run. Invest in a spray tent, they are about $37.
3 coats later
After.
Wet sand with 1000 grit sandpaper
With 1000 grit sandpaper (wet sand rated) smooth out any runs or inperfections before the next coats.
Bonus part painted
I took the opportunity to paint the small suspended parts black.
1200 degree ceramic high heat paint
Tip: Remember, make sweeping passes over the piece.
Several gentle coats of silver
Tip: Start spraying the paint off the piece and then move over and off of it.
Several gentle coats of silver
Tip: If you have any runs, you'll need to wet sand them after they dry.
Several gentle coats of silver
Tip: I built a rotating paint pedestal, find something you can use to rotate the piece without touching it.
Several gentle coats of silver
Tip: I know it looks cool, but let it sit and dry patiently or you'll be doing it again.
Our finished outer faceplate
After the paint dries, thoroughly, use a lint free cloth to buff the mask to a shine.
You'll need some power
I chose a 12v 1a power supply with recepticle. I prefer 12v and the single amp should be a nice low current for the lights.
Use an old circuit board for the see through effect
I reused the circuit board from the now dead smart frame prototype project. A dab of hot glue to hold it in. Green glitter glue resembles the circuits.
A square of black felt cut to the shape of the mask
Cut some black felt to the shape of the mask. Be sure to leave some knotches in the curved areas. Start from the top and work your way down the mask.
Layout internal parts
Get an idea of where pieces will fit. Glue the frame of the see through window to the felt and let it dry.
A heat gun is helpful
If you don't own one (like us), very very hot water will soften the plastic enough to bend it. Be sure to hold the piece down with a straight edge like a ruler so the bend is clean and uniorm.
Bend and test, bend and test
It will take patience and time.
I printed the lenses at 20% fill
Though the designer calls for 100%, I used 20% infill instead. I'm choosing not to make allow viewers to see through them.
Solder the eye lights
I used a pack of pre assembled lights. They are 12v and already have resistors wired in. I found them on Amazon.
Make sure it works first
Don't glue anything before testing first.
3D printed the base
A different infill would have improved the print. I chose not to print the base but to print it in brown instead.
Test the fit of the connector
Make sure everything fits nicely.
I chose to use different connectors
The designer's idea of the small push connectors would still be better, go with them.
Wire the base
Connect the power supply to the sockets.
Paint felt areas black first
Paint under the areas you plan to cover in felt. The paint will mask any miss cut felt and the felt will cover the paint.
Base of black, top of silver
Paint areas like the holes in the grills black first.
The black holes add depth
Painting the piece black first gives a realistic look.
Painted felt areas
Superglue will turn the enamel model paint to colored glue.
Add the silver model paint
After the black is finished drying, paint the remaining parts silver.
Packing foam for outer lenses
To hide the view into the faceplate while still diffusing the light, I used some thin recycled packing sheets.
Light passes through quite nicely
This is the effect I wanted, you may want something different.
Weld the more complex eye pieces
I used the 3D pen to fuse the two eye pieces together.
Fused eye parts
You can also fix loose lights with a little filament or glue.
When you're out of heat shrink
I was out of heat shrink, so I made due with the 3D printer pen.
Finished right eye
Two parts are now one, and one is easier to install.
Two eyes are better than one
Link both eyes, solder all splices.
Run power wires
Run power wires through the base connector.
Make sure the base will hide the circuit board
Make sure the felt and base connector hide the circuit board and wires passing through.
Paint the tubes a gentle earth tone
To give the tubes a real feel I used a lighter brown.
Add darker brown accents
I really liked the look of the leather bits the designer suggested so I pained a few raised parts brown for effect.
Glue on the felt
Cut and glue felt over the areas we've painted black.
The teeth effect
To give the gear teeth depth we painted the deep parts black and lightly brushed silver across the face of the teeth.
Glue on the encircling wires
I used an old IDE CD-ROM digital audio direct cable (from an old PC), striped the shielding, and clipped off the plugs to make the three wire effect.
Craft wire
The supports for the top center piece are held together by craft wire inserted through the holes on the supports.
Glued in place
Glue the top center piece in place and allow it to set. Remember to work from the top of the mask down.
Cut a window in the felt
With the frame glued to the felt, use an Xacto knife and some needle nosed pliers to cut the window in the felt.
Finalize splices
I wired each light in series and both lights in parallel.
Solder all splices
We don't want them coming apart, electircal tape is useless long term.
Felt may stretch
After working with the felt repeatedly it tends to stretch in places. This is ok so long as it still fits neatly.
Start gluing the remaining felt down
Glue the felt to the faceplate from the top down to above the eyes.
Sart adding details
From the top, start gluing in the details.
Glue on the top details
Glue the top details on down to the eyes. Let them dry.
Glue the eyes down
Glue the eyes down. I glued them as flat as possible. Use a gentle weight and let them dry.
Continue gluing down parts
There is some coordination needed for the cheek areas.
Add in the header pins
Find a means to bend the pins at the same time. This can actually be tricky.
Glue in the center mic/vent/thing
Glue the center piece in place.
Flash view through the window
I love this detail!
Glue down the encircling wires
Finally glue in the encircling wire effect.
Let it dry
Let everything dry before subjecting it to gravity.
The finished product!
Fan or not, you'll love it!
The finished product!
Fan or not, you'll love it!
The finished product!
Fan or not, you'll love it!
The finished product!
Fan or not, you'll love it!
The finished product!
Fan or not, you'll love it!
The finished product!
Fan or not, you'll love it!
The finished product!
Fan or not, you'll love it!